2023 - Goldthread: Golden Splendour

Project Goldthread, conducted by Juan de Lara and Ana Cabrera-Lafuente, studied a selection of beautiful Islamic embroideries made with metallic-organic thread. The idea for the project began after the pair researched textual accounts describing an overwhelming use of gold in medieval Islamic palaces. This led to the two finding several surviving fragments, all from the 10th-12th centuries and all with gold-threaded surfaces, calligraphy, and decoration of animals and fantastic beasts. All, moreover, were understudied.

The study carefully analysed a number of elements: the textile technique used to weave these extraordinary items, the raw materials used in each fragment, and the iconography which helps identify the original location of the pieces. Additionally, illustration and documentation work were carried out to support further study of this magnificent, and underrecognized, form of textile work.

The project included workshops at the objects’ home museums to educate museum staff on the gathered information and suitable care of the objects. The project not only revealed great insights into cross-cultural relationships between societies at the time of the objects’ creation, but also furthered understanding of the relevant texts that richly describe them and local workshops where these pieces were crafted.

more Research projects